Welcome to my first 2023 A to Z challenge post on Tools of the Trade – Jewelry Fabrication.
As I was thinking about the challenge I realized writing about these topics in alphabetical order might be confusing, but I will do my best to clarify along the way.
Also, I use sterling silver in my work so my posts will most often be related to sterling silver as opposed to other metals. Sterling silver is 92.5% silver and 7.5% alloy. The alloy makes the silver stronger, but it is also why sterling silver tarnishes.
Note: Adequate ventilation and proper safety gear and safety procedures are critical when working in a jewelry studio. It is a good idea to maintain a notebook of the MSDS safety sheets for all materials used in your studio.
Annealing
Sterling silver is sold in different hardness and the one you choose is based on its intended use. For most applications that will involve soldering, dead soft is generally purchased. It is the most malleable.
As silver is hammered, or sawed, or run through a rolling mill, the silver gets harder – this is called work hardening. The molecules of the metal move around causing the metal to become difficult to move. It also becomes brittle. Continued attempts to move the metal at this stage can cause it to crack or break.
Annealing is the process of reheating the metal to relax the molecules (grain) allowing the metal to become malleable again.
Annealing temperature for sterling silver is approximately 1100°F but determining when the metal has reached that temperature is the trick.
- The metal is placed in a soldering pan, on a heat resistant surface such as a soldering block, charcoal, or fire brick.
- In a well-ventilated studio (with the lights dimmed) a torch (commonly an acetylene or an oxygen/acetylene torch) is continuously passed over the entire piece of metal until the color reaches a ‘dull cherry red’.
- Determining the color can be difficult in a brightly lit studio, so there are other methods that may be used to determine when the proper temperature has been met.
- When the surface is coated with a paste flux (a flowing agent used in soldering), the flux will turn glassy clear when annealing temperature has been met.
- When the flames bouncing back off the metal become orange in color.
- When a line is placed on the metal using a permanent marker, the metal has reached annealing temperature when the marker line disappears.
- Once annealing temperature has been met, the metal must be quenched in water. If allowed to air cool, the internal structure of the metal will tighten again, reintroducing hardness.
- Caution: overheating silver will cause it to melt. It is always a good idea to practice on scrap metal if you are unfamiliar with the process.
Below is a short video from Halstead Jewelry Supplies that shows the heating of a piece of metal (copper in this example) heated to annealing temperature.
You’re off to a fascinating start, Maggie. I am always surprised by the temperature silver can withstand. I did some consulting work in a brass mill in the 80s. annealing on an industrial level seemed relatively easy. In your jewelry studio, it sounds much more daunting.
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This is a long explanation for a process that takes only a few minutes, Dan. I have melted a few pieces early on. There is a process of intended overheating called reticulation that is sometimes used as a design element. Got metal is amazing. My dad worked in a steel mill when I was in high school and I remember the heat and the red hot metal as it was heated to a lava-like state. Those images were powerful.
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I had many members of our extended family that worked in steel mills, including a cousin who worked an a specialty steel mill. Mostly stainless alloys.
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That is some hard work!
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I just had to read your posts, because one of my aunts makes jewelry.
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Welcome! Thank you for taking the time to read. It is a craft I truly love.
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Thought it was interesting once the desired temp has been reached it has to be cooled in water and not just cooled by the air. It does sound like a skill that requires practice.
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Some of the cooling depends on the metal being used, Bruce. There is a lot of science involved.
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This is going to be very educational for me, Maggie. I know absolutely nothing about jewellery.
Best wishes, Pete.
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I hope you enjoy the posts, Pete.
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Wow…another fabulous example of how little I know…annealing. Thanks for sharing, Maggie! 😉
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We all have a deep hole of things we do not know. 😂
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😜😉😜
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I love silver. Have to be careful that it’s actually stamped 925 ~ I’ve been “burnt” before…
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I have a 925 stamp but I don’t always use it. I do with jewelry I intend to sell which has not been much as of late.
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Very interesting information Maggie
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Thank you, Sadje.
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You’re welcome 😇
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I learned something new, thanks.
Ronel visiting for A:
My Languishing TBR: A
Accomplished Athena
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I am glad you stopped by!
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I love learning more about something I know nothing about. Thanks!
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Learning 8s always a good thing!
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Very interesting Maggie. Thank you.
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Thank you for reading, Peter.
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Way to kick off the challenge. All I could think of is don’t try this at home. 1100F o-m-goodness that’s hot!!!
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It is very hot! Luckily we have tools to handle hot metal.
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Realizing I have no idea how jewelry is made. Very interesting.
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People wonder why handmade jewelry is so expensive. It is a labor of love and like most artistic endeavors, takes a great deal of skill and a lot of time. The materials alone are very expensive, too.
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Fascinating Maggie, and I even sort of understand this- the molecular part- having just finished up some of that topic with the grandkids in science. Still no one should let me near a torch… 😉
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I used to think the same thing. The process sounds complicated, but it only takes a few minutes.
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Cool! Nice way to start the Challenge!
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Thanks, John.
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So interesting! I’ll sure enjoy learning more about jewelry making. 🙂
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Thanks for taking the time to read, Barbara.
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I am looking forward to the A through Z jewelry challenge – I have much to learn!
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I am happy to have you along on the journey.
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